DAY 1 Taking off at Seoul City Hall Station, a busybody of people were all moving toward 12 different exits of the stations. I felt as if I were the only stranger to this subway station, standing before a big map showing the vicinity of the station and figuring out as to which one of the exits was leading up to Deoksugung Daehanmun gate. At the end of the painstaking effort, I found the exit. A big crowd of protesters was circling a stage with a huge screen filling up the background; I knew I found the right place. Taking out my camera, I started shooting photos. A fair-haired lady in her 40s stood next to me and whispered, “you should probably take that thing off if you don’t want to find trouble here.’’ Only then I realized she was referring to the yellow ribbon badge clipped on my backpack: the ribbon symbolizing the support for the victims and their families of Sewol Ferry Disaster. Quickly, I removed the badge and hid it in my pocket. Half an hour later, when one of the pro